Sawan (Monsoon) in Varanasi

Sawan(Monsoon) is that time of the year when nature adorns itself like a newlywed bride for her groom. It is that moment when nature’s beauty is simply unbounded and untamed through its glorious greens and blazing blues. The calm breezes and endearing drizzles make the earth’s heart throb like a teenager’s. Nature spreads an auspicious aura all across the atmosphere and this compels even the poets to create romantic creations.

The month of Sawan or Shravan is the 5th month according to the Hindu calendar and falls somewhere between July-August as per the Gregorian calendar. The festivals in India fall in some or other month but this is the only month which itself is celebrated as a festival. Special songs are sung throughout this month and women dress in Green colours and wear green bangles. Numerous lip-smacking delicacies like Malpua, Halwa, Chena-payesh, Khichadi, Jaleba etc are prepared in every home to welcome this joyous month with full zeal.

Although Sawan is enjoyed and embraced throughout India, but in Varanasi, it is tuned in a different rhythm altogether (just like ‘Banarasi Alhadpan’). The terrific-trio of Faith, spirituality and festive spree takes the environment into another world altogether. The fresh shower of rains add many shades of colour which makes Banaras truly a “Zinda Sahar” and every Banarasiya “Mast”. There are fairs and festivities in all corners of the city famous among them are ‘Durgakund ka mela’, ‘Assi ka mela’, ‘Beniyabagh ka Mela’,’Sarnath ka mela’ etc. Not only the kids but adults too go bonkers riding the Merry-go-rounds, cup-saucers and Dragon Swings. And of course, who will miss the mouth-watering street foods like chats, golgappa, mewa-Kulfi, Nankhatai, Dahi Bhalle, Jhaal-Mudi, Momos, Lassi etc which can be seen in the entire panorama. Strolling in this fairs, your eyes will certainly be attracted to the colorful wooden toys and earthenware which local artisans make and sell here.

It appears that along with humans 33 million Hindu gods and goddesses also greet Sawan with arms wide open. This is the month in which 8th avatar of Vishnu, Shree Krishna reincarnated on earth to gift us with his endless Leelas and his witty wisdoms. It is believed in this month only Shakti (Prakriti) and Shiva (Purusha) unites together and become one supreme consciousness.

Also, as per mythology, in this month ‘Samudra Manthan’ (Churning of the Sea) was done by the Asuras and the Devas. This churning of ksheer Sagar produced ‘Halaahal’ (the deadliest poison) among many other kinds of stuff. This ‘halahal’ was proving to be deadly for every living form. ‘Mahadev’ took the onus of getting rid of this by consuming it and entrapping it in his throat. This caused an extreme burning effect which turned Shiva’s throat blue (so Neelkanth!) and his body temperature thus rose exponentially. To help Shiva get rid of this, both Devas and Asuras (yes! He is dear to both the team) began pouring water on him. Since then this tradition of pouring river water over Shiva in the month of Sawan came into being. Men and Women (especially in northern India) wear saffron-coloured clothes, carry tumblers of Gangajal and walk bare feet for hundreds of miles to pour water over Kashi Puradhipati – “Baba Vishwanath”. These men and women are called ‘Kanwariyas’ and their journey is called ‘Kanwar Yatra’. Credit must go to the millions of Kanwariyas who paint this entire city saffron in this month. Mondays are the most auspicious day when devotees visit the temples and women keep fast for long life & well being of their family.

Talking about festivities in Varanasi and no mention of enriched Banaras Gharana? Is it even possible? Several musical performances are held every evening in this month. Among all classical and folk performances, Thumri and Kajri style of singing has a special repute in this month. They are said to be the ‘music of romance’ which fuses into the air and makes every soul wiggle. Greats like Girija Devi, Pt. Channulal Mishra, Rajan-Sajan Mishra, Malini Awasthi to name a few have helped in spreading these beautiful arts worldwide. On the 5th day of the full-moon fortnight, ‘Nagpanchami’ is celebrated to pray and revere the Snake/Serpent god. His blessings are necessary for long life and well being of devotees. Snake charmers on this day carries snakes door-to-door and devotees offer milk and other offerings to them.

Wrestling (Kushthi) competitions are held on this day in various ‘Akhadas’ of the city where Pehelwans (wrestlers) from all across the country come and try their luck. Pictures of ‘Seshnag’ are sold everywhere and devotees paste it on the doors of their house. ‘Teej’ is another important festival in Sawan when married women dresses up in gorgeous green sarees, with mehndi in hands and green bangles, keep fasting for long life and well-being of their family. And finally on purnima (full-moon) of sawan the festival symbolizing eternal bonding of Brother & Sisters – “Rakshabandhan” is celebrated. Sisters tie colourful rakhis on the wrist of their brothers and brothers in return promise to protect them from all evils. They exchange gifts with each other and awesome dishes are prepared at home.

Sawan brings the fragrance of love, affection, faith, unity, celebration in everyone’s life and when this fragrance fuses with Banaras then it becomes exquisite. This is one season which actually rejuvenates every corner of heart and makes it a ‘Baccha’ again.